DW743 Flip Over Saw from DeWALT

The Daddy of all flip over saws

DW743 flip over saw from dewalt

Tooled Up is cheapest…

The DW743 has been my flip over saw of choice for more years than I dare admit. OK, so I might be biased! But hey, in my humble opinion that makes me perfect to tell you all about it!

And talk about the DW743 I do; to anyone who will listen! Mostly because I have become so impressed (and attached!) to mine and the work it has done for me over the years.

I have clocked up thousands of hours on my DW743 with near daily use, working on everything from studwork to kitchens and skirting’s to cornice work. All tackled drama free and with virtually no maintenance (cleaning and the odd squirt of WD40) and no breakdowns. (I rewired the cable once when the inner cable became exposed from constant winding around the bed on packing away.)

If you are reading this then its fair to assume that you are asking yourself, the DW743 is a lot of money, is it going to be worth it?

Elu flip over saw

Elu – the Granddaddy of them all

Well, it does of course depend on what you are going to use it for (groan, thats not very useful I know!), but all machines have their limits. However, the DW743 has evolved from the early Elu’s into a saw that can cope with everything normal domestic construction can throw at it (not that it can’t handle industrial stuff too).

So, in a nutshell, it is all about capacity. Because you’ll not hurt the motor on a DW743 as they are bulletproof. The frame and bed is very sturdy and strong too and it’s all simple to operate and flip over. So, take a look at the specs further down and think about what are the most common sizes of timber that you use.

You’ll need an idea of the type of work you’ll be doing to decide if the DW743 is the right choice for you. For example; if you do mostly sheet panel work you might want to consider a dedicated table saw with a larger bed or if you regularly cut unusually large, complicated cornices then maybe you should consider a sliding chop saw with a larger blade.

But generally the DW743 is likely to be over the top for your needs. Don’t forget this flip saw is designed for daily use by a professional chippie in a harsh building site environment. Using it to knock up bird boxes in your shed is going is going to be very light duty indeed!

Before we go through some of the benefits of the DW743 I want to tell you the ‘gut’ feeling you get with this saw. Because it is just so much more than a machine that cuts wood. This is a saw that gets you out of trouble, it gives you whatever size stock you need to fill that gap. It makes you look good on the job and seems to be at the centre of the job somehow. Even if it is just somewhere to park your coffee mug in between cuts!

I think that it’s the way I set up my jobs, with the flip over saw in the middle and trestles either side creating a bench like feel that handles the timber running through it. Setting up my other tools behind me seems to create an impromptu workshop on the site, with the DW743 the centerpiece around which everything happens.

Which is why this flip saw has been around for many years and is a firm favorite with many professional carpenters, builders and decent DIY types alike.

Here are some of the benefits that make the DW743 so popular:-

  • No need to carry two machines or an extra stand.
  • It’s cutting capacity makes it able to tackle most jobs.
  • The motors are tough, powerful and virtually maintenance free.
  • Great design makes flipping between modes easy.
  • Legendary reliability means that it is always earning for you.
  • Heavy frame and sturdy saw bed can handle big timbers that lights stands quake at.
  • Can produce whatever size stock you need from existing timber or even site scraps.
  • Jigs (home made or DeWALTS) enable you to replicate large numbers of same size cuts easily.
  • Compound mitre configuration makes complex cuts possible (if you can work out the angle of the dangle!).
  • Saw bed is very ergonomic height for prolonged use.
  • Portable and stores well in the truck, usually in table saw configuration with legs off.
  • Good, safe switchgear, both table and handle mounted.
  • Can also cut plastics and even aluminium etc with specialist blades.
  • It’s a great park your coffee mug in between cuts 🙂

Flipping the saw into table mode is usually simple and only takes a few seconds. The blade guard drops down with a single thumb screw and then it is a quick twist of a spring loaded clasp to free the bed and flip it over till it clicks into place.
Although the DW743 is primarily a woodworkers saw and can handle all the normal stock sizes found in most jobs, the DW743 can also cut aluminium and plastic; sheets, sections and even pipes. Just match the correct blade to the right material.

Some things you might want to consider about the DW743

  • Doesn’t have a plunge depth stop, although arguably rarely needed either.
  • Lacks the slightly larger cutting capacity of a dedicated table saw or big combination saw.
  • Can be heavy to lift alone (I’m getting old!)
  • Need to remember to turn a blade stop key when cutting unique angles you will only forget once though!
  • Dust extraction system is arguably complex and expensive, although efficient
  • Everyone on site will want to ‘borrow’ it!

What can I do with the DW743?

I thought about just having a list of those things that you can’t do with a DW743….but that would just be silly……….so, here is a list of stuff that mine has done over the years…. (hmm…..how to structure this list…. How about from the bottom of a house up?)

  • Fencing posts, rails, gates and other site boundary timbers.
  • Pegs and profiles, easily cut pointed stakes and cross pieces etc for setting out buildings.
  • Shuttering timbers for concrete works, tamps and screed rails etc.
  • Making profiles for building up walls, “dead men”, window and door dummies.
  • first floor joists, trimming out.
  • Timbering out steels ready for boarding etc.
  • Staircases, especially balustrades and handrails.
  • Framing, i.e. studwork, heads, baseplates, studs, noggins or dwangs (wtf!) etc.
  • Wallplates and roofing timbers, especially if using purlins and smaller rafters etc.
  • Ok, back inside the house now!
  • Kitchens, oh kitchens, can you really fit them without a flip over saw?
  • Bathroom furniture (getting more and more ‘standard’)
  • Door frames, casings, door stops and trims.
  • Skirting boards.
  • Architraves and other trims.
  • Wooden cornices, pelmets and other finishing works.
  • Wooden flooring, laminates, engineered and real block flooring.
  • Bookcases and other furniture.
  • Outside again now!
  • Decking, balustrades and steps etc.
  • Sheds, old fashioned greenhouses, gazebos, or orangeries, conservatories etc
  • Seats, benches, birdtables, birdboxes and other misc garden stuff
  • Use your imagination, if you can think it; you can make it!

Well, if that doesn’t convince you that you need a DW743 then nothing will! It’s a great list isn’t it? It has made me realise just how many things that I have build over the years. Great.

As for where to buy one, well lots of places sell them these days. I keep an eye on the prices (obviously, as it is the number one question that I get asked) and at the moment Tooled Up are the cheapest.

Good luck making the decision about getting a DW743, personally I don’t think that you’ll regret it, I have met countless owners and have yet to come across anyone who doesn’t love their DW743.

Stay well

dw743 from dewalt

Additional resources about flip over saws and their use

Specs for the DW743

  1. Power Input 2000 Watts
  2. Power Output 1550 Watts
  3. Blade Speed 2850 rpm
  4. Blade Diameter 250 mm
  5. Blade Bore 30 mm
  6. Bevel Capacity 45 °
  7. Mitre Capacity [right/left] 45 / 45 °
  8. Cutting Capacity at 90°/90° (W x H) 140 × 68 mm
  9. Cutting Capacity at 90°/90° (W x H) 180 × 20 mm
  10. Cutting Capacity at 45°/90° (W x H) 95 × 70 mm
  11. Cutting Capacity at 45°/90° (W x H) 120 × 46 mm
  12. Cutting Capacity at 90°/45° (W x H) 70 × 95 mm
  13. Cutting Capacity at 90°/45° (W x H) 150 × 20 mm
  14. Max. Cutting Capacity [Sawbench position 90°/90°] 0 – 70 mm
  15. Max. Cutting Capacity [Sawbench position 90°/45°] 0 – 32 mm
  16. Weight 37 kg
  17. Depth 670 mm
  18. Length 700 mm
  19. Height 750 mm

DW743 ships with as standard

  • 30 tooth saw blade
  • Parallel fence
  • Push stick
  • 4 detachable legs
  • Saw blade guard
  • Assembly tool

DW743 versions

There are differences between the different versions of the DW743 and the DW742 out there and according to DeWALT, the “GB” is the ‘standard’ model and just the “N” version is the ‘lightweight’ model. The LX model is the 110volt one.

Performance and specs are EXACTLY the same on all saws. To summarize then, the N version has a few parts made from a lighter material to cut down on overall weight. Not structural parts, just some non stressed parts like the end cover on the motor etc.

Oh, incidentally, I have been using the ‘lightweight’ version for years and it has been as tough as heck.

Where can I learn more about using a flip over saw?

There are many books out there with some great tips and tricks advice for table and chop saws. Try searching amazon.co.uk for ‘table saw‘ or ‘mitre saw‘.

Even if you are a pro, you will always learn something new from a book. Every writer has a different background and teachers; you are unlikely to know everything, no matter how good you think you are!

You can read my original article about choosing a flip over saw at ehow: How to Decide If a Flip Over Saw Is Right for You

Tips & Warnings

Safety information and guide (not exhaustive!)

  • These saws are large, mostly professional quality machines and therefore must be treated with the utmost respect; they are often powerful and capable of causing personal injury.
  • Start the saw and listen to it while you ready your work piece, stop and investigate anything that sounds unusual or different. Unplug the machine first of course!
  • Proper clothes and safety footwear should be used.
  • Tuck away loose clothing or hair that could possibly catch in the blade.
  • Eye protection is essential.
  • Ear protection should be considered especially when working in enclosed spaces or for prolonged use.
  • Work in a clear area with good underfoot conditions, i.e. no rubble or debris lying around.
  • Warn other people close by not to approach you while using the saw, but to wait until you have switched off the saw and the blade has stopped.
  • Hold the workpiece firmly and be familiar with how the blade cuts through the material and how it feels.
  • Don’t use excessive force to cut the material, let the blade do the work.
  • Keep the blade in good condition by regular cleaning and re-sharpening.

39 Responses to DW743 Flip Over Saw from DeWALT

  1. Ian says:

    Been there, done that! It is amazing how the brain can be totally brilliant at somethings and terrible at others (like remembering where stuff went!). My worst thing is stuff behind plasterboards. Oh, the times I forget to mark stuff like joist positions or worse, pipes etc., and my brain seems to totally disregard anything it can’t see lol!

    I got into the habit of taking photos a while back, a lesson learned from a ’77 Daimler re-build which I did on and off for 5 or 6 years. I’d have been lost without my notes and pictures….

    Keep me in the loop as they say!

  2. Tom says:

    Sorry Ian was having a blond moment. In disassembly I had to leave certain bits still attached the turntable as they were seized together then work them through the backstop /pivot part. But since removing extra grub screws and separating parts I dont need to do any jiggling through anything I just remembered I had. It took me Half a day to strip it then I left it over weekend. So forgot how it went. What i was trying to do was put the 45 slide of the turntable through the 45 where the blade drops through. feeling daft now as it definitely dont go there it sits just behind. Thanks for your time

  3. Tom says:

    Thanks for the speedy reply. I will do as you say with sending u some pics, Give me some time to get around to it. I totally dismantled it because it was left wet and all the ally furred up. the two parts im left with are the turn table which the saw attaches to with a few more bits and the back rest/stop come flip pivot. its abit of a Chinese puzzle.

  4. Ian says:

    Hi Tom,
    Difficult to help from my armchair! When you say base, do you mean the block which holds the motor etc?. What do you think the problem is? The only thing I can think of from here is to look at the exploded parts diagrams to see if they help. https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/search/?q=dw743&type=model of suchlike.
    Take some pics and ping them to me at ian@handycrowd.com if you think I can help.
    Sorry I wasn’t more useful!

  5. Tom says:

    Hi Ian ive taken my flipsaw apart and im having trouble getting the base back on the turntable any pics or advise? Thanks regards Tom

  6. Sid says:

    Thanks Ian I will give it a try thanks again for info

  7. Ian says:

    Hi Sid,
    The vertical blade adjustment is via small allen grub screws, one each side of the tilt mechanism…

    Re the tilt scale is best cleaned out with compressed air as taking it apart means removing the whole saw ‘head’ which is tricky. I would clean with a piece of wire and air. You can buy cans of compressed air from electronics shops if you don’t have access to a compressor. Get a can with a thin tube nozzle.

    Once completely clean (from both sides) check the saw again and use an allen key to adjust the ‘stops’ to make the angles right again. I found the scale on the tilt block not too accurate so I ignored them and used a good carpenters square to determine a true 45 degrees.
    adjustment screw
    opposite adjustment screw
    Let me know if that’s what you mean!

  8. Sid says:

    Hi Ian sorry it is the vertical blade I need to square but thanks for telling me about horizontal it will be good to do both fab take care Sid

  9. Ian says:

    Hi Sid,
    You can square the blade by using the locking pin assembly… here I wrote this to another guy a while back… (I’ll highlight the part you need…)

    Hi Chris.
    Yes they do wander out over time. I just completely re-set up mine in fact.

    Re the tilt scale is best cleaned out with compressed air as taking it apart means removing the whole saw ‘head’ which is tricky. I would clean with a piece of wire and air. You can buy cans of compressed air from electronics shops if you don’t have access to a compressor. Get a can with a thin tube nozzle.

    Once completely clean (from both sides) check the saw again and use an allen key to adjust the ‘stops’ to make the angles right again. I found the scale on the tilt block not too accurate so I ignored them and used a good carpenters square to determine a true 45 degrees.

    Adjusting the blade angle to the bed is even easier. You know the bed lock that pins the bed at 90, 45 etc?? Well, this is a concentric design that can be adjusted. From memory it’s a small allen grub screw that holds it. Slacken slightly the allen screw and use a spanner on the two small flats and turn it slightly, checking for 90 degrees between the blade and the back upright (I pulled the head down and used the rear holding screw to keep it down.

    Once happy that the blade is exactly 90 degrees to the bed gently tighten the holding grub screw.

    Of course all of this will be easier if the saw is clean and lubricated. Blow out all the dust and lubricate the bed slides with graphite. You can use WD40 but this will attract more dust and need repeated cleaning and re-application. I admit to using WD40 on mine as I can never find my graphite lube!

    The other thing you can check is the ‘pinch’ grub screws that run around the outer edge of the rotating part of the bed. You’ll find these in the cast part of the base. Insert a (5 or 6mm) allen key and tighten the plastic grub screw so that it touches the base but doesn’t hold it. get these too tight and you’ll struggle to turn the saw head to change angles.

    Hope this helps! I actually have all the photos from you own service with the intention to write it all up, but time escapes me right now!
    Let me know how you get on!
    Cheers for now
    p.s. here is the adjuster…

  10. Sid says:

    Hi there I have a flip over I have had 2 think there great would never buy anything els all the info you have gave people is sound advice even though I have had 2 I can’t find how to square the blade so I can cut a nice forty five on angle thanks Sid

  11. Ian says:

    Hi Seb,
    The place I’ve used in the past is “Miles”, but of course it’s new stuff with corresponding prices. But still, if you’re sure the motor is good a little investment could get you a working saw.

    I only have the one now, an old 742 which only has the table mounted switch and only a blade guard at the trigger/handle. Must admit it’s a big design improvement to have the handle mounted on/off switch.

    I wish you good luck, you never know, if you have space to tuck it away, something might turn up over time!

  12. seb says:

    Hi Ian
    I actually already have a 743 but managed to pull a working 110v 742 out of a skip last week
    However, it is short of legs and the black plastic bevel lock handle.
    It also only operates, in chop mode, using the on/off switch rather than the handle grip switch as the safety trigger is missing.

    I was wondering therefore if anyone knows of a source for these parts, or a work around, other than new retail………….

  13. Ian says:

    Set up a google alert (Google.com/alerts for DW742 and see what it kicks up. Not sure whether you meant you need some parts or you’re offering yours for sale as parts!
    Brilliant saws, basic sure; but a great saw on site.
    Have a great weekend!

  14. seb says:

    I have just got an old 742 with the external capacitor, is there anyone who breaks these for parts?

  15. Ian says:

    Hi Graham,
    It does have brushes but it depends on how it stopped. Brushes usually falter a bit before stopping completely. Check the wire into the machine first. I had a broken wire once on mine where it exits the clamp. I guess it gets bent here a lot when I wrap the cable around the bed on packup.

    Let me know how you get on.

  16. Graeme says:

    It’s a Dewalt 743

  17. Graeme says:

    My saw has stopped working does it have bushes

  18. Ian says:

    Thanks Ray!
    I’d love to know the model number of your saw Ray, as I want another one and the extra capacity appeals to me.
    Now I live in Norway I am doing more and more carpentry, my trowels are going rusty lol!
    Agree with you, I always smile when I see a tiny chop saw and a cheap table saw outside a house…
    Cheers for the comment!

  19. Ray says:

    I have to agree with this article, the flip over is a superb and essential tool onsite , copes with everything I’ve thrown at it over the years. I opted to buy the larger 305mm blade version of the flip over so I could use it for larger timbers if required, coupled with the fact of it having the legs on board instead of being seperate and having two large internal wheels which allow you to move it in a wheelbarrow fashion.
    Aswel as all the uses mentioned in the main statement I have also used mine to cut tenons and construct an old Victorian looking kitchen island from solid wood ………. All onsite . Definitely purchase one of these machines and don’t even give it a second thought as to ” should I”
    Great article Ian
    Ray ( Rbwoodwork)

  20. Ian says:

    Only had a little experience with generators, but I know that start up surge can stall small gennys. The Makita is definitely OK like you say and the DeWALT…. questionable since it’s likely you’ll be stop starting the saw a lot which could mean trouble. We had a genny once that we had to hold the throttle open when we fired up the machine until the start up surge had passed. A pain.

    I would call someone who is more expert on generators before committing to a saw. The DeWALT saw is better, but only if the genny can cope with it.
    Sorry not to be definite Matt, 99.9% of my career on powered sites luckily!

  21. Matt says:

    Ian Quick question – can the dewalt be used with a Honda 20eu generator. I need a flipsaw but the dewalt is spec’d at 2000w input and the Makita at 1750W. The Honda will run 2000w but the book says only for 20mins. Should I choose the Makita to be safe?? Your views and experience appreciated.


  22. federico says:

    I sure need some luck on that one. Thanks for the pic

  23. Ian says:

    Hey Fredrico!

    Wow, who would have thought about the clamp! Never heard of that one before, just goes to show that you need to look at everything.

    Yes, the locking pin does indeed have adjustment. It is concentric and there are two flats at the top to enable you to get a spanner on it. It is for very fine adjustment, in fact in poor light you might not even see the movement! I recommend that you do this with a friend as I find it tricky to hold the square in place and adjust the pin. A little WD40 helps here as always. Wipe up after tightening it back down. Here is me adjusting one… Adjusting blade angle on the DW743 The compound mitre adjustment screws are in the head stock.
    Good luck setting it up.

  24. federico says:

    Hi again Ian,
    thanks again for your advice. Just for everyone to know… in my case the problem proved to be not so much the turntable bolts, but the clamp that holds the turntable. Even when it was released, it wouldn’t let the turntable go. The trick is, there are a couple of bolts that hold the clamp (hex ones, accessible from below the bench when in mitre position) that need to be fairly loose, even though what happens then is that they tend to get too loose.
    Also, I’ve seen in a video that the rotation plunger (the one you need to lift before turning) can be used for fine-adjusting the mitre angle. Nothing happens in my case. Do I have a problem or may be not all types of the 743 have this feature?
    My next step will be checking proper angles of the saw to the fence and the table.

  25. Ian says:

    Don’t forget there are several turntable bolts!! Just look all around the edge, must be 4 at least.
    Good luck

  26. federico says:

    Thanks Ian, I think I get it. I’ll do as suggested and see what happens.
    I would have never gone looking for this recessed tuning bolt, nor would I have imagined that the dust could clog the turntable so badly. The saw looks clean indeed, but I guess they didn’t bother to take care of hidden details.
    Thanks so much

  27. Ian says:

    Hi Frederico,

    Yes! Lots can be done to restore a neglected saw.

    Re the fence. There is a hex or allen bolt recessed into the fence cast end. This can be screwed in or out to line up the fence with the blade. You should also check the straightness of the saw bed to ensure it hasn’t been dropped which can bend the part where the fence slides from side to side.

    That leaves the turntable. Do you know I have a whole bunch of photos on my hard drive ready for the day I get the time to write up how to service these saws! You should be able to free the turntable easily, first blow out any dust if you have access to an airline and then take a look at the friction plugs that go around the outer edge of the turntable. Back them all off until it’s completely free and then wind each one down until its just touching the turntable using an allen key (5mm I think, but have a look first).

    Personally I use WD40 on mine and yes I know the dust sticks to it! But I think it’s so quick to blow the sticky dust out with an airline and re-WD40 once a month or so I’ll live with it in exchange for a silky smooth turntable. They are here…. Turntable ‘pinch’ screws Have a fiddle with yours and see if that works.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you need a pic of the fence adjustment screw!

  28. Ian says:

    Incidentally, to check the fence for square, love the fence about 10cm away from the blade, wind the blade up as far as it will go and then simply measure the distance from the fence to the blade (front and back)adjusting the fence grub screw until the measurements are equal. You can move the fence to another location to check again.

    On my saw the blade is parallel to the grooves in the saw bed so I can just line up my fence with the long grooves to check it.

  29. federico says:

    by the way: this page did play a role to convince me to buy my dw743

  30. federico says:

    Hi, I recently bought a second hand dw743. It says on the tag it is a Type 2 if this makes any difference.

    I cannot adjust the rip fence at a true 90 degree angle, so the cut is not really parallel. I read it has to be so in order to avoid kickback, but in my case there are maybe 4 millimiters between the chosen measure at the base of the rip fence (where you have the adjusting bolt) and the opposite side of the fence. The result is obviously inaccurate, is it my fault (I’m a total beginner)?

    Did anyone find any workaround? Is there a way to use a ripping sled on this saw? The existing groove is too shallow and wide, also not angled correctly to be reliable.

    Also, when used as a mitre saw, it is incredibly hard to rotate it to adjust the angle. I have to keep the legs of the table with my feet or else the whole thing rotates and the angle does not.

    Everyone is so happy with their DW743, any help in this would be most appreciated.

  31. Ian says:

    Hey Cameron,
    OK, what we need to do is determine if the stiffness comes from the motor or the two bearings on the blade spindle and the easiest way to do that is to pop off the long black cover on the right had side. This covers a ribbed drive belt that comes off easily by rotating the motor pulley by hand and pulling the belt to one side at the same time, it will roll off the pulleys one groove at a time. (obviously make sure it’s unplugged!)

    Right, with the belt off, spin each pulley. If the blade one is stiff and there is no obstruction, then it’s the bearings on the shaft/spindle. If its the motor…… well, you could check to see if the brushes have broken up and are blocking the motor otherwise it’d have to go into the shop to be overhauled. Doubt that makes financial sense these days unfortunately.

    The bearings are not too bad to replace, I did mine recently actually, (click here to see what I learned http://handycrowd.com/where-to-buy-cheap-bearings/) I won’t give you the numbers, they vary, just strip the shaft out and read the numbers and google “simply bearings”.

    Good luck and let me know if you need any help.
    Stay well

  32. Hi I have the DW 743 I think that’s the first flip over after the Elu but yesterday when I went to use it the blade felt a bit stiff so I flipped it over and cleaned out all the sawdust then back over ready to rip but the blade still felt harder to turn so I stripped a bit more , not finding anything ? I never opened the motor section as I couldn’t do anything in there anyway ! When I turn it on it makes the noise but the blade only turns a very wee bit so I tryed helping it but turned it of quick incase I was doing damage , can anyone identify what the problem is pls I was using the same saw the day before and was great . Regards Cameron

  33. Jason Ratcliff says:

    Hi there,im a big fan of this combo saw,mine is the last model from Elu before it changed owners,it sets the bench mark in this type of saw even today,i disagree that it is to heavy as any other brands ive used in the saw bench mode tend to move around when ripping sheets etc,and yes it does need to be a certain weight if its designed to last a very long time(German engineering) I do think in a world of everything disposable this saw stands out,even if im bias,i think one of its most remarked trait would have to be just how quiet it is when running,and always reminds me of our big expensive dimension saw in the workshop base,and lastly i always say that if you cant do excellent finishing with this saw (sharp blade) then dont blame the saw because it will dish out perfect cuts..

  34. Ian says:

    Hi Fred,

    I do agree that the DW743 is heavy and I have cursed it more than once carrying it onto the job but I wonder if it’s heaviness also contributes to is sturdiness and durability?

    Interesting that the bevel/mitre combo has clearance problems, I’ve not encountered that as a builder/carpenter, maybe I don’t do enough fancy work! I do a lot of different jobs with mine though no problems. I do agree about the cross slide, but again it’s not something I use a lot, usually only if I need to make a single cross cut and I’m too lazy to remove the fence and flip it over. Even though I admit to have stopped using the riving knife many years ago because it’s simply too time consuming on construction work where I need to flip it back and forth a lot.

    You’re right about the cost of accessories and that’s why I made my own side table to act as jig for some firewood stores I make a lot of… let me see if I can find a pic…. Yes, here it is…. Custom side table with sliding stop.

    That leaves the turntable. Do you know I have a whole bunch of photos on my hard drive ready for the day I get the time to write up how to service these saws! You should be able to free the turntable easily, first blow out any dust if you have access to an airline and then take a look at the friction plugs that go around the outer edge of the turntable. Back them all off until it’s completely free and then wind each one down until its just touching the turntable using an allen key (5mm I think, but have a look first). Personally I use WD40 on mine and yes I know the dust sticks to it! But I think it’s so quick to blow the sticky dust out with an airline and re-WD40 once a month or so I’ll live with it in exchange for a silky smooth turntable. They are here…. Turntable ‘pinch’ screws. Have a fiddle with yours and see if that works.

    I need to completely strip mine down one day, saw off and everything, because somehow I’ve managed to crack the casting! It doesn’t seem to affect the operation which is probably why I haven’t got around to it. I still don’t know how it happened, although it was shipped in a container from the UK to Norway three years ago, but it’s difficult to imagine the force needed to break the casting, who knows?

    Thanks for leaving a comment Fred, glad you like the saw even with it’s limitations, it’s still the best all rounder for most folk I recon. I do hanker after the new model though…. Christmas present?
    Merry Christmas to you and yours!

  35. Fred says:

    Hi Ian.
    I have a DW743 and in general I like it very much. It is heavy which is a shame because it makes it hard to deal with single handed.
    It does suffer limitations. The design of the locking system for example. If you try to bevel and mitre simultaneously you find the bevel is limited to just a few degrees because the saw body strikes the locking knob of the ‘turntable’. Also the turntable has a problem with jamming. Mine takes two people to rotate it clockwise whilst it is just fine going anticlockwise. When flipped in table mode the cross-slide (optional extra) is far to wobbly to get a reasonable cut for any purpose. Optional extras are ludicrously expensive.

    However, I still like it. The bevel limitation is annoying though.

  36. Ian says:

    Hi Janus,
    At first I was indignant! How could you fault such a great tool, but then I realised that I agreed with you! The saw is more suited to site work than fine joinery because of the difficulty in adapting this saw with home made jigs etc. Although I find the fence solid enough for my purposes, I imagine that a ‘fixed at the front’ only fence has its limitations for really fine joinery.

    The slot for the slide is also stamped into the bed which makes it pretty crude for home made sleds and jigs etc.

    But as a tough saw for general duty it takes some beating and the compact two in one machine is a boon when it has to leave the shop
    Thanks for stopping by Janus,

    p.s. It sounds like your from my neck of the woods, I am living in Norway now?

  37. Janus Knudsen says:

    One thing I don’t like about that saw.. hmm well actually there are 2 🙂

    The parallel fence is too wobly, which means that it’s impossible to do a precise cut with it.

    The saw bed is stamped out of a metal plate, which makes it complicated to create a slide.

    I agree… it is an extremely nice flip over saw for a carpenter, but not for woodworking without some advanced changes.

  38. Ian says:

    Yup, me too Andy! Having said that, I saw a much newer DW743 the other day and I would swap my very old DW742 for it in an instant. Not that there is anything wrong with my flip overs, maybe I just like shiny new tools lol! But then I think about how many days work I need to do to pay for them and my quite customized saws start to look just fine!
    Thanks for stopping by and making the time to leave a comment.

  39. Andy nuttall says:

    Hi i could not agree with you more about flip over saw i have used elu for the last 15 years, and has been the perfect machine!
    it has been left outside in rain snow and frost wile on site in-fact a couple of years with the temperature dropped down to -8 during the day the table froze so i couldn’t change the angle i had to warm with blow torch.

    the large one looks good but find it difficult to buy de walt!

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